Cinabro Carrettieri
Workshop where traditional Sicilian carts are still hand-painted. Sage rec. Book the tour ahead — they only take small groups.
40 minutes between the two towns. Both compact, both walkable.
Early start. Highway then A18. Park directly in lower Ibla — skip the famous Superiore-to-Ibla descent. Sage recommends the walk, but it's a long staircase both ways.
Piazza Duomo + Cattedrale di San Giorgio — the baroque masterpiece. Walk the perimeter; sit on the steps.
Giardino Ibleo — peaceful gardens at the eastern edge with views over the valley. Shaded benches.
Pace gently. Lots of small piazza cafés to rest at. Ibla rewards slow.
Sage rec. Workshop where traditional Sicilian carts are still hand-painted. Fascinating folk art — the kind of place that feels like time traveling. Book the tour ahead.
Quattro Gatti for casual seafood, or Locanda Don Serafino for the splurge (Michelin). Both walkable from Piazza Duomo.
Short hop south. Park in lower Modica.
Sicily's most famous chocolate shop. Cold-process, granular, Aztec-style — less sweet than what you're used to, more like a chocolate-textured energy bar. Tasting flight available. Buy gift bars (vacuum-sealed; they survive the flight home).
Then the Cathedral of San Pietro in the lower town. Both are baroque rebuilds (1693 earthquake again). Skip the cathedral climb if anyone's tired.
Highway home. Lighter traffic outbound late afternoon. Should be back at the villa by 7.
Take-out: from Ortigia + eat at the villa.
Villa pasta: simple, with leftovers from Thursday's chef-in.
Ortigia revisit: if anyone has energy, drive 25 min to Ortigia and revisit a favorite from earlier in the week.
Workshop where traditional Sicilian carts are still hand-painted. Sage rec. Book the tour ahead — they only take small groups.
Sicilian seafood, casual. Walks-in usually fine but reserve at 1 PM if uncertain.
One Michelin star. Splurge alternative to Quattro Gatti. Book ahead. Long lunch — leaves less time for Modica, so weigh accordingly.
Sicily's most famous chocolate shop. Cold-process, granular, Aztec-style, less sweet. Tasting flight available. Buy gift bars (vacuum-sealed; they survive the flight home).
Same chef as the (now-closed) Michelin-starred Accursio, in a casual osteria format. Could replace lunch in Modica if we want a sit-down meal there instead of just chocolate.