— DAY 07 OF 09 · BAROQUE + CHOCOLATE 07.
FRIDAY · JUN 26 · RAGUSA IBLA + MODICA

Val di Noto's crown jewel,
then chocolate.

Drive southwest to Ragusa Ibla. Wander Piazza Duomo and the gardens. Visit the Cinabro Carrettieri cart workshop. Lunch in Ibla. Drive to Modica for the famous Aztec-style chocolate. Drive home.

DRIVE~3:25 total
WALKINGSubstantial · slow
PACELong, gentle
RESERVATIONSLunch + Cinabro
BIGGEST CALLIbla park strategy
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Today's map — Ibla & Modica.

40 minutes between the two towns. Both compact, both walkable.

Friday route Villa Activity Eat / treat
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The day, hour by hour.

  1. 8:30 AM
    Drive southwest to Ragusa Ibla (~1:30)

    Early start. Highway then A18. Park directly in lower Ibla — skip the famous Superiore-to-Ibla descent. Sage recommends the walk, but it's a long staircase both ways.

  2. 10:30 AM
    Wander Ragusa Ibla

    Piazza Duomo + Cattedrale di San Giorgio — the baroque masterpiece. Walk the perimeter; sit on the steps.

    Giardino Ibleo — peaceful gardens at the eastern edge with views over the valley. Shaded benches.

    Pace gently. Lots of small piazza cafés to rest at. Ibla rewards slow.

  3. 11:30 AM
    Cinabro Carrettieri (book ahead)

    Sage rec. Workshop where traditional Sicilian carts are still hand-painted. Fascinating folk art — the kind of place that feels like time traveling. Book the tour ahead.

  4. 1:00 PM
    Lunch in Ragusa Ibla

    Quattro Gatti for casual seafood, or Locanda Don Serafino for the splurge (Michelin). Both walkable from Piazza Duomo.

  5. 3:00 PM
    Drive to Modica (~40 min)

    Short hop south. Park in lower Modica.

  6. 3:30 PM
    Antica Dolceria Bonajuto

    Sicily's most famous chocolate shop. Cold-process, granular, Aztec-style — less sweet than what you're used to, more like a chocolate-textured energy bar. Tasting flight available. Buy gift bars (vacuum-sealed; they survive the flight home).

  7. 4:30 PM
    Walk up to San Giorgio (Modica) for the views

    Then the Cathedral of San Pietro in the lower town. Both are baroque rebuilds (1693 earthquake again). Skip the cathedral climb if anyone's tired.

  8. 5:30 PM
    Drive home (~1:15)

    Highway home. Lighter traffic outbound late afternoon. Should be back at the villa by 7.

  9. 8:00 PM
    Light dinner — three options

    Take-out: from Ortigia + eat at the villa.

    Villa pasta: simple, with leftovers from Thursday's chef-in.

    Ortigia revisit: if anyone has energy, drive 25 min to Ortigia and revisit a favorite from earlier in the week.

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Eat & drink — Ibla & Modica.

Activity · Ragusa Ibla · Sage rec

Cinabro Carrettieri

4.9★ ~90 reviews

Workshop where traditional Sicilian carts are still hand-painted. Sage rec. Book the tour ahead — they only take small groups.

11:30 AM · Activity To book
Treat · Modica · The reason for Modica

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto

4.6★ ~5,840 reviews

Sicily's most famous chocolate shop. Cold-process, granular, Aztec-style, less sweet. Tasting flight available. Buy gift bars (vacuum-sealed; they survive the flight home).

3:30 PM · Treat Walk-in
Lunch alt · Modica · Bib Gourmand

Accursio Radici

4.7★ ~250+ reviews Bib Gourmand

Same chef as the (now-closed) Michelin-starred Accursio, in a casual osteria format. Could replace lunch in Modica if we want a sit-down meal there instead of just chocolate.

Lunch alt · Modica Alternative
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Substitution option.

SWAP · ARCHITECTURE LOVERS

Scicli for Modica

Scicli's baroque palaces (Beneventano with grotesque balconies, Spadaro, Fava) and churches (San Bartolomeo, San Matteo) are stunning. Skip if you want chocolate; sub if you want more architecture. Same drive distance.
No chocolate · more palaces
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Heads-up for the day.

PARKING
Park in lower Ibla, not Superiore. The walk down from Ragusa Superiore is well worth it for the energetic, but it's a long staircase. Coming back up is worse. Park in Ibla and walk on the flat.
PACE
Sage suggested 2–3 nights would be ideal in Ragusa. We're doing it in a day. Don't try to "see everything." Pick the cathedral, the gardens, Cinabro, and one café — that's plenty.
CHOCOLATE
Bonajuto's chocolate is granular and less sweet than American or Belgian chocolate — that's not a defect, it's the Aztec-style cold process. Try the cinnamon, vanilla, and chili before judging.
CAVALCATA
Modica's Cathedral of San Giorgio sits at the top of a long flight of stairs. Skip the climb if anyone's tired — the views from below are still good.